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Jumat, 19 April 2013

What to do in the UK this spring: new trips, events and days out

With temperatures on the up, here's our pick of the best ways to make the most of the late spring, from cycling in the Lake District to sea kayaking in Scotland and wine tasting in Essex
Red Kite tree tent
Red Kite's tree tent in Builth Wells, Wales

Tree-based camping, East Sussex and Wales

The latest way for campers to enjoy the great outdoors is suspended several metres above ground – from the comfort of a tree tent. The Secret Campsite (01273 401100, thesecretcampsite.co.uk), near Lewes in East Sussex, has added a hanging tent for two "with views over the South Downs" to its collection of camping "shelters", which include a modern day shepherd's hut called an Arkette and a bell tent.
Meanwhile, in a wood in Wales, the Red Kite tree tent (01865 764087, available to book through sheepskinlife.com) hangs from the trees in the grounds of Red Kite Barn, a self-catering property near Builth Wells in Powys. Featuring a double bed and wood-burning stove, it offers all perks of other posh camping structures, but a few metres above the ground.
Tree tents may be sold as "back to nature" options, but the idea of such creature comforts as a wood burner will no doubt appall camping traditionalists. They may well baulk at the price too. As with most "glamping" options, tree tents aren't cheap. The Secret Campsite's tree tent costs £95 per night, with a two-night minimum at weekends (though a standard tent pitch costs from £10pp). The Red Kite tent is similarly priced: £299 for a three-night stay for two. But for those who like the romance of camping, but not the discomfort of sleeping on lumpy ground, it's perfect.

Sea kayaking and wild camping, Scotland

Kayaking in Scotland Kayaking in west Scotland. Photograph: Andy McCandlish How do you solve a problem like the UK's unpredictable spring weather? Wilderness Scotland (01479 420 020 wildernessscotland.com) has come up with a good plan for their new sea-kayaking trip along the west coast. Wait and see what the conditions are like, and then decide how brave you are feeling. If the sun's out over the Hebrides, up the number of nights of wild camping from one to three. Or if it feels like less of a good idea when you're hit by April showers, then a comfy bed can be booked instead. A five-night trip leaving on 25 May costs £650pp, including accommodation (hostel and wild camping), most meals, all transport to and from Inverness, full guiding and equipment. Across the sea, newly-launched sister company Wilderness Ireland (wildernessireland.com) is offering a range of activity holidays. Its Northern Ireland cycling trip takes in Rathlin Island and the Giants Causeway, with overnight stays in an 18th-century manor house (from £337pp, based on four sharing, including two nights' B&B, afternoon tea, packed lunches, bike hire and guides).

Cycling for all, the Lake District

Cycling in the Lake District Cycling in the Lake District Sky Rides' free group cycling trips have become popular in various UK cities, from London to Newcastle, but this spring will be the first time they come to a national park. May's Lake District ride will be led by British Cycling guides and split into different abilities on arrival, so experienced riders who might be considering joining a club won't be held back by kids using stabilisers. These are great days out for families and groups of friends, or those wanting to meet new people who share a love of two-wheeled travel. Participants will soon be able to register at goskyride.com. For more on cycling in the area (including details on bike hire), see golakestravel.co.uk/bybike.

Wine tasting, Essex

English Wine Barn, Essex West Street Vineyard's new English Wine Barn in Essex There are nearly 400 vineyards in the England and Wales, and the West Street Vineyard in the village of Coggeshall in north Essex claims to be the first wine "experience" dedicated to celebrating a range of them. Modelled on the vineyard experiences of New Zealand and South Africa, and housed in a newly constructed barn overlooking 1.4 hectares of vines, West Street will offer tastings of over 30 English wines in its wine bar, including their own sparkling, white and rose. They also offer courses covering English (an introduction to East Anglian wines), European and New World varieties, plus there's cafe selling locally produced cheese and meats.
weststreetvineyard.co.uk. Opens 23 April. Visitors can buy a smart card for £5, £10 or £20, which gives them a choice of tastings from an automated wine wall

Non-stop arts, Norfolk

RhonaByrne It's All Up in the Air, a sculpture by Rhona Byrne at the Norfolk and Norwich festival Norfolk is preparing to become a giant stage as it hosts its annual arts festival. Renowned for cutting-edge events and brilliant use of alternative venues, the Norfolk and Norwich festival promises another stonking line up of music, visual arts and theatre, among them contemporary circus Risque Zéro at the Great Yarmouth Hippodrome (the UK's only surviving complete circus building in the UK); a Kindness of Strangers theatre piece performed to an audience of four in a moving ambulance; and the world premiere of an epic show by New York-based Nature Theater of Oklahoma, based on the verbatim transcript of a 16-hour phone conversation. With 75 shows over 17 days, there's a massive choice of entertainment.
nnfestival.org.uk, 10-26 May

Scenic strolls, nationwide

St Stephen’s church, North Yorkshire St Stephen’s church, North Yorkshire The Churches Conservation Trust, the charity dedicated to conserving historic churches, has put together a series of walks taking in some of the most picturesque churches in the country. They include a five-mile, cliff-top path walk from Whitby to Ravenscar in North Yorkshire, via Whitby's dramatic Benedictine abbey; St Andrew's hilltop to Prudhoe castle in Northumberland; and from All Saints on the Thames to Oxford (six miles), ending at the Eagle and Child pub, which has attracted many literary heavyweights over its long history, including Tolkien and C.S. Lewis.
Whitby to Ravenscar, North Yorkshire: click here for route map
St Andrew's hilltop to Prudhoe castle: click here for route map
All Saints to Oxford: click here for route map

Fish and a dip (if you're brave), Cornwall

St Edmund's House, Padstow St Edmund's House, Padstow The pretty Cornish harbour of Padstow can be hellishly busy in summer, but in spring visitors can admire its charming narrow streets, lined with colourful homes and cute cafes, in peace. There's no escaping the influence of Rick Stein, but those who don't mind that could take advantage of a spring deal in one of his holiday properties. Costing £425 for two and available on breaks between Sunday and Thursday until 23 May (excluding Sunday 5 May), the stay includes two dinners and two nights' B&B accommodation in one of six properties (including cottages, the Petroc Hotel and B&B rooms in the cafes). The meals are at St Petroc's Bistro and Rick Stein's Cafe, known for its very fresh fish dishes.
01841 532 700, rickstein.com

Sunny strolls by day, stargazing by night, Cambridge

Varsity Hotel, Cambridge Varsity Hotel, Cambridge: the rooftop terrace at sunset For those who like looking at the constellations but who can barely identify that sort of frying pan-shaped one, the stylish Varsity Hotel is putting on an astronomy night, run by the Cambridge Astronomical Association, on 25 April. The hotel, which has a fantastic rooftop garden, backs on to the river Cam, so guests could spend the day strolling in the sunshine (fingers crossed) before the event. Specialist telescopes and high-powered laser pointers will be put into action by the experts for a guided tour of the cosmos; last month's class managed to see the rings of Jupiter. A warming drink on the roof, a two-course meal and glass of fizz are included in the tickets, which cost £45pp.
01223 306 030, thevarsityhotel.co.uk, rooms from £155 per night

Walk with a purpose, Northumberland/Scottish Borders

The 2012 bestseller The Unlikely Pilgrimage of Harold Fry, which tells the tale of a man who goes out to post a letter to a sick friend but ends up walking 600 miles across Britain, is partly to blame for an increased interest this year in pilgrimages, according to self-guided walking specialist Macs Adventure. It says bookings for long walks are up by over 100% on certain trips. For a spring challenge in the UK, it recommends St Cuthbert's Way, a 63-mile trek through the Scottish Borders and Northumberland, finishing at Holy Island. Its package for independent walkers starts in Melrose and takes four to seven days, costing from £370pp including accommodation, breakfast, luggage transfer, maps and route guides.
0141 530 1950, macsadventure.com

Enjoy spring blooms, Wiltshire

Bluebells at Bowood House Bluebells and other blooms at Bowood House and Gardens Britain's woods are normally carpeted with bluebells by now but the freezing weather in March and early April mean the traditional blooms may not appear until mid May or later this year. When they do make an appearance, enjoy them at Stourhead in Wiltshire (nationaltrust.org.uk/stourhead) where you can stroll landscaped gardens and bluebell woods (garden entry is priced at £7.70 for adults; £4.20 for children).
The harsh spring has not affected the Bowood House and Gardens' (bowood.org) famous rhododendron displays. If anything, it's helped. Owner Lord Lansdowne is predicting one of the best flowering years after the particularly wet spring. Bowood's Rhododendron Woodland Walks, a separate garden featuring 60 acres of azaleas, magnolias and rhododendrons, opens on 26 April for six weeks (walks are between Calne and Chippenham, accessed via a separate entrance) and will take in the new four-acre Jubilee Garden.
If you're planning more than a day trip to enjoy Wiltshire's impressive gardens, you could base yourself at Poulton Lodge Marlborough (poultonlodge.com), a Finnish-style log cabin set on a working farm. Walk straight from the cabin into a bluebell wood and onto the Ridgeway (sleeps five, £700 - £950 self-catering), or enjoy other nearby gardens including Lydiard House and Park (lydiardpark.org.uk) and Wilton House (wiltonhouse.co.uk).

Bratislava: a beer lover's guide

Bratislava takes its beer just as seriously as its more famous neighbour, Prague. And a new wave of independent microbreweries and pubs, often hidden down the back streets, is putting the city on the beer-drinkers' map
Bratislava
Bratislava: the castle and beyond Photograph: Alamy
Bratislava is a simple beast. Skulking quietly in the shadow of Vienna and Budapest, the capital of Slovakia is often rushed through as tourists make a beeline for those more grandiose cities. A quick look round the castle, a plate of meat hastily wolfed down, and they're off, mumbling something about how small they found it all. Yet unlike its Danube counterparts, it boasts something far more appealing than any Baroque facade or thermal bath: decent beer.
Much like its beefier half-brother Prague, it takes the art of beer-making very seriously. And, in recent years, an exciting new trend has developed: microbreweries. Popping up in unexplored crevices of the city, these tucked-away drinking caves specialise in home-produced lagers, and are packed full of discerning but guzzling locals, who've grown tired of the mass-produced fare.
As a self-confessed beer enthusiast living in Prague, I couldn't resist a weekend sojourn to seek out these much talked-about beer dens. Could they match up to the already excellent and more well-known Czech and Slovak beers? Here is a rundown of my best finds. If we've missed one of your favourites, tell us about it in the comments below.

Zámocký Pivovar

Zamocky Pivovar, Bratislava Zámocký Pivovar Almost the city's entire quota of visitors seems to huddle in and around the gothic and Renaissance-built castle. But located just 200m down the slope, adjacent to the city walls, and overlooked by most visitors, is the microbrewery Zámocký Pivovar (Zámocká 13, zamockypivovar.sk). Offering a modern take on an old, dark-wood pub, its simple tables line the main bar, and in the adjoining smoking salon, a huge brass beer tank forms the centrepiece for smokers to cluster around.
Combining the tastes of typical Czech beer ("the teacher") and Slovak beer ("the apprentice"), Castle Beer, the menu says, is a compromise. I opted for the 12° version (the degree denotes colour, 12° being a pale ale) – a malty but refreshing beer, which reminded me of a Christmas ale.

Meštiansky Pivovar

Mestiansky Pivovar, Bratislava Meštiansky Pivovar Just beyond the main shopping street, Obchodna, and down a side road is the surprisingly busy Meštiansky Pivovar (Drevená 8, mestianskypivovar.sk). Founded in 2010, this gargantuan, three-floored pub has tried to resurrect the magic of the long-since demolished original Bratislava brewery, which dated back to 1477. Combining modern brewing methods with old recipes, its Pilsner-esque lager comes in light and dark forms.
Sitting on the second floor, under an old map of Bratislava, I plumped for the dark option, Bratislavský Bubák, and ordered two warm beef dishes (a soup and smoked tongue), which are served with bread, horseradish and mustard. The beer had a pleasant, blackcurranty aftertaste, and perfectly complimented the piquant meal. The place was bustling with couples and after-work drinkers.

Starosloviensky Pivovar

Starosloviensky Pivovar Starosloviensky Pivovar Starosloviensky Pivovar (Vysoká 15, staroslovienskypivovar.sk) is a much cosier affair than the previous two stops. Decked out like a Tatra mountain wood cabin, it is a celebration, not just of beer, but also of traditional Slovakian goat's cheese (bryndza). Sheepskin rugs cover the wooden benches, farmers' tools scatter the walls and waiters in traditional folk outfits shuttle beer from bar to punter. Their own brew is Pressburg (taking Bratislava's original name), a yeasty ale, full of flavour and a tad heavier than your average pint. And very proud of it they are too. When my girlfriend snubbed the local brew in favour of Czech lager, Svijany, the barman visibly sneered and walked off to fetch it like a sulky teen.

Omama Shop Cafe

The city's university area is off the beaten track and though not as architecturally alluring as the centre, it does boast some excellent pubs. Omama Shop Cafe (Sasinkova 19), though not a microbrewery per se, does stock several local malt and wheat beers, and was recommended to me by the barman at the castle pub. It's easy to see why he was so enthusiastic. Tucked inconspicuously below street level, every inch of wall is plastered with old Soviet advertising plates, a grand piano sits invitingly in one of the rooms, and the tables are embedded with old beer receipts. It radiates warmth, and my Klášter – an imported wheat beer from a northern Czech village– is a full and satisfying companion.

Pivovarský Hostinec Richtár Jakub

Pivovarsky Hostinec Richtar Jakub, Bratislava Pivovarský Hostinec Richtár Jakub Also close to the university and behind a squat-like door is Pivovarský Hostinec Richtár Jakub (Moskovska 16, richtarjakub.sk), a welcoming pub, teeming with glass-chinking life. Resembling a scout hall, it is reassuringly basic: a row of temporary beer pumps, old Guinness cartoons lining the walls, drinks cans piled chaotically on the shelves. It is perfect.
The chalk-scrawled beer board lists the options, all of which are available in 100ml taster glasses. I sampled the house lager, Jakub; a coffee-flavoured ale from Vienna; and, finally, a deliciously dark Czech beer, Podkrkonošské. For the best way to soak up some of the alcohol, order the nakládený hermalín (camembert-style cheese filled with chilli pepper) as a gooey side order.
This article was amended on 17 April. Under Zámocký Pivovar we referred to a 12% beer. This was incorrect. It should have read 12° (the degrees lovibond scale is used to measure of the colour of beer).

Hadlow Tower: the UK's tallest folly reborn as a rentable holiday home

Built by an 18th-century industrialist to spy on his wife, this long-derelict tower has been restored to its former glory
Hadlow Tower View larger picture
Hadlow Tower soars above Kent like a gothic space rocket. Photograph: Vivat Trust
When 18th-century industrialist Walter Barton May thought his wife was having an affair with a local farmer, he wanted to be sure she would never escape his sight. His excessive solution can still be seen today: a 64m tall observation tower that soars above the surrounding Kent landscape like a gothic space rocket – from which he could survey the entire village.
While the jealous origins of Hadlow Tower may be the stuff of local legend, its dramatic physical presence can't be denied. The tallest folly in the UK, it climbs into the air with telescopic ambition, pierced parapets piled upon trefoil tracery. That it stands here today, honey-coloured in the spring sunshine, is thanks to a £4.2m restoration by the Vivat Trust, which has now transformed the long-derelict tower into a rentable holiday home.
"It is by far the biggest project we have ever undertaken," says Laura Norris, director of the Trust, which was founded in 1981 by a couple of architecture students, and now has 22 period properties on its books, from a classical temple in Shropshire's Badger Dingle, to a 16th century castle tower in the Clyde Valley.
Set in the village of Hadlow, near Tonbridge, Barton May's folly is the work of naval architect George Ledwell Taylor, who built the dockyards at Woolwich and Sheerness, and brought his marine expertise to bear here in 1838. While it looks like stone from a distance, it is in fact a brick structure, rendered in Roman cement – a hard-wearing clay and lime mix that Taylor had used on his dockside buildings for its durability in the abrasive sea air. "It was also the cheap option for a man with aspirations, but not much cash," says Norris. "If he was around today, he would be the guy that wants bling."
Barton May had big ideas, and so ordered his architect to look to the grandest precedent he could find. In the end, Taylor's florid gothic design was entirely lifted from the 90m-high tower of Fonthill Abbey, a monumental pile designed by James Wyatt for William Beckford in the 1790s. But Fonthill's grandeur was a mirage: constructed from "compo-cement", a dubious system consisting of a timber frame stuccoed with render, it came tumbling down just a few years after its completion. Twice rebuilt, it collapsed again and again and has since been demolished.
Hadlow was to prove more enduring. It survived when the adjoining manor house was dismantled in the 1950s to fuel the architectural salvage trade, and has since been put to such bohemian uses as an experimental artists' commune and a German pornographer's film studio. It stood intact until 1987, when a great storm finally threatened to topple the slender lantern that crowns its peak, which was taken down as a result. "Since then it has stood without its top, looking rather forlorn," says Paul Gray, chair of the Vivat Trust. "It became an unadorned stump."
The vertiginous Piranesian stair at the tower's upper levels The vertiginous stair at the tower's upper levels. Photograph: Vivat Trust After a vigorous local campaign organised by the Save Hadlow Tower Action Group (or SHTAG for short), which raised £20,000 in donations, the council issued a compulsory purchase order in 2008, and handed the building over to Vivat on a long-term lease. The restoration was funded by £2.6m from the Heritage Lottery Fund, as well as money from English Heritage and others.
Exploring the warren of octagonal rooms today, it is hard to imagine the building's former decrepitude. A sleek new lift, hidden behind double oak doors, has been cleverly inserted into one of the tower's three buttresses to whisk you between the different levels – from the reception room at the base to the grand master bedroom four floors above, complete with an 8-poster bed, following the geometry of the tower's plan. Three bedrooms and three bathrooms, as well as a kitchen and dining room, have been squeezed into the narrow footprint, in a delicate process that amounts to keyhole surgery.
In the upper levels, a new steel stair rises to the summit, 101 steps winding around the tower, while a spidery cage of steelwork holds up the weight of the new lantern. From the top, expansive vistas of hop fields are framed by ornate quatrefoil windows and projecting canopies, topped by three-metre spires. All the mouldings have been remade in Roman cement from castings of original fragments. It was a lengthy process of detective work, piecing the design together from historic photographs: an exhibition at the base of the tower, organised by the enthusiastic volunteers of SHTAG, shows how it happened.
"We've been living in the shadow of the tower for over 13 years now," says Norris, as we climb down the vertiginous spiral staircase of this unique monument to one man's inflated whims. "But I'm glad to say this nonsense will now be around, and dominating the horizon, for many years to come."

Europe's most threatened archaeological sites and landmarks

Fourteen of Europe's endangered cultural and historic sites have been shortlisted for a rescue mission by heritage body Europa Nostra. Tell us what you think of the list, and any other sites you'd like to see saved.
St Paul and Peter Church, Armenia
The Church of St Peter and St Paul in Armenia, one of the world's earliest Christian structures, in under threat
Berlin's gaslights, an Italian Renaissance monastery and a historic Turkish city don't have much in common on the face of it, but all three are under threat and have been placed on a list of threatened European landmarks.
A total of 14 archaeological sites, religious buildings, historic city centres, and military fortifications have been shortlisted by Europa Nostra for 7 Most Endangered, a European heritage initiative devised to help save some of Europe's most threatened places.
The 14, selected by experts from a total of 40 nominations submitted by public bodies and organisations across 21 countries, will be whittled down to seven for the final list, to be announced at Europa Nostra's 50th Anniversary Congress in Athens on 16 June.
Here' the full list of places. What do you think of the list? And is there anywhere you think should be on it?

Roman Amphitheatre in Durrës, Albania

Roman amphitheatre, Albania This early-second-century Roman amphitheatre once hosted over 15,000 spectators and yet remained unknown to the modern world until the 1960s (allegedly when a local noticed a tree sinking in his garden). Restoration poses a major challenge: it is currently only partially unearthed and modern housing has been constructed on top of one section.

Church of St Peter and St Paul, Aragatsotn, Armenia

St Paul and Peter church, Armenia This small, isolated and dishevelled chapel is one of the world's earliest Christian structures, dating back to the fifth century AD. It is also seriously endangered by regular flooding and needs urgent action if it is to be saved.

Buffer zone in the historic centre of Nicosia, Cyprus

Nicosia, Cyprus Conservationists from the Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot communities have worked together with the UN to produce a master plan for the revitalisation of the lifeless 1.5 km corridor that crosses the historic city of Nicosia.

Vauban's Fortifications in Briançon, France

Vauban’s fortifications in Briancon, France Designed in the 17th century to guard the city, these mountain fortifications have already been given Unesco world heritage status, but they now need further attention to protect them from decay.

Gaslights and gas lamps in Berlin, Germany

These romantic, historically valuable and perfectly functioning gas street lights have been part of Berlin's cityscape for almost 200 years. Today no other city in the world has preserved gas lights to such a scale. The proposed replacement of gas lights with electric lighting is opposed by the local community and numerous tourists who are strongly attached to the existing lamps.

Former royal estate of Tatoi, near Athens, Greece

This grand estate was acquired by the Greek royal family in 1871 as a summer palace, and over the years it has exchanged hands between the state and the monarchy on numerous occasions, earning it a special place in the country's history. Various royal figures are buried in the adjoining cemetery. Last September, it was reported that the government would be selling it off as part of a "firesale" of valuable buildings in a bid to save the devastated economy.

Citadel of Alessandria, northern Italy

Said to be one of the greatest remaining 18th-century military fortifications in Europe, this citadel has a rich history linked to the Napoleonic times and the unification of Italy. It is on Unesco's tentative list of heritage sites.

Renaissance monastery of San Benedetto Po, near Mantua, Italy

San Benedetto Po monastery, Italy This monastery (circa 15th to 16th century) was heavily damaged by the May 2012 earthquake. Given the historic and artistic importance of this renaissance building, and its impact on cultural tourism in the wider region, the hope is that public authorities will give a higher priority to rescue measures.

Manueline-style monastery and church of Jesus in Setúbal, Portugal

Recognised as a symbolic location in the history Europe, this was the site of the 1494 signing of the Treaty of Tordesillas between Spain and Portugal, which paved the way for Europe's expansion to the Americas and Far East. The monastery and church are in an advanced state of decay. It is hoped that reparation of the site could become a catalyst for revitalisation of the whole historic city of Setúbal.

Rosia Montana mining landscape in Transylvania, Romania

Rosia Montana mining landscape, Romania The landscape of Rosia Montana and its surrounding villages has been transformed by mining over three millennia. However, the present open-cast gold mining project would seriously threaten its unique heritage and environment, which includes in situ Roman mining machinery.

Neolithic site of Vinca-Belo Brdo, near Belgrade, Serbia

This prehistoric site is threatened not only by lack of funds but also by its proximity to the Danube. The site's basic infrastructure needs to be improved to allow continued excavations, access for tourists and enhanced interaction with the local community.

Neighbourhood of El Cabanyal-Canyamelar in Valencia, Spain

Colourful facades in Valencia's Cabanyal district Colourful facades in Valencia's Cabanyal district. Photograph: Jason Webster The inhabitants of El Cabanyal-Canyamelar, the old fishermen's quarter near the port of Valencia, are campaigning to save their homes – some of which have beautifully ornate and character-filled frontages – from destruction caused by a proposed new road project.

St George Armenian Church, Mardin, Turkey

This derelict church in the ancient town of Mardin has foundations going back to the fifth century.

Historic city of Hasankeyf and its surroundings, Turkey

If the construction of the Ilısu hydroelectric dam continues as foreseen, 80% of Hasankeyf's historic monuments will be flooded within the next decade, yet there is no internationally recognised scheme for their conservation, preservation or relocation.

Rabu, 17 April 2013

Holiday planning advice: Ask Tom – live Q&A


Got a travel dilemma? Tom Hall of Lonely Planet was online on Wednesday to answer your queries. Readers also gave some excellent tips too. Read them – and Tom's answers – in the comments below


Algarve. Portugal
The Algarve, Portugal. Photograph: Alamy
The weather appears to have turned a corner in the UK and suddenly summer does not feel quite so far away. If you need help planning ahead for your holiday, or a last-minute spring weekender, Tom Hall is back to help brainstorm destination suggestions, offer practical advice on getting there and give you plenty of tips on how to spend your time once you've checked in.
Tom will be online at 1pm BST on Wednesday 17 April, replying to your questions on any queries you have about travel this summer or any time of year. Please post your comment below.
Tom will get to as many questions as he can in an hour, but due to the volume of questions, he may not be able to answer all of them in the live blog. Unanswered questions will be considered for future Ask Tom blog posts.